Itinerary: A4, O4, M3
Ulassai
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Description
This small mountain town is not a bad place to get acquainted with some of the customs and peoples of the remote and culturally intact Ogliastra area of Central Eastern Sardinia. It is also an area abounding in little known walking and climbing possibilities being surrounded by impressive mountain scenery and high rocky limestone plateaus full of little gorges, slots, caves, and the often bizarre forms of the countless rocky towers or pillars known locally as the "Tacchi" (pronounced tacky).
The town itself is perched at about 700m elevation in a saddle between two cliff topped mountains with views East towards to the coast far below.
Guided visits to the limestone cave of Su Marmuri can be made from around April till around October (unfortunately the cave is closed in winter due to high water levels in sections), after which you can do worse than enjoy a long lunch in the restaurant attached to the ticket office for the Cave (best to book in the high season). Walking opportunities include the short walk through the Canyon behind the town finishing near the Su Marmuri Cave, or the 4 Hr circuit walk through the area of the Tacchi, or even a climb to the top of Mt Tisiddu to the South of the town for a fantastic panorama of the Ogliastra region, to name just a few.
On a less active note there is a carpet weaving co-operative which operates a workshop and sales outlet on the outskirts of town which can be visited by the public.
This area is still not overly developed for tourism, however, so come armed with a little patience, a little time, maybe even a few words of Italian and your efforts will be rewarded.
The town is quite small and maps are not really needed. Walk in any direction and in 5 minutes or so you are at the outskirts of town. There is one main street (Corso Vittorio Emanuele) running on the level through the centre of town along which pass all the buses. The FdS bus from Lanusei (A4, O4, M3) makes a stop right in front of the Town Hall (a largish important looking building without a name looking across to a small Piazza with views East towards the coast) and it is from opposite this same building that you can catch the ARST bus back to Lanusei (A4, O4). FdS buses connecting Ulassai with Jerzu to the South and Tacquisara and Osini to the North, which operate several times a day, also stop here. Finally, this is also the place to catch the FdS bus to Cagliari (M3). Watch out that this Bus could well arrive first from the South (from Jerzu) stopping in Ulassai before continuing North to Ossini, turning around and passing back through Ulassai where it stops again before heading off for Cagliari. It should be possible to board the bus in either direction.
Tickets for both bus companies are on sale at the two newsagents in town, 1 of which is located on the mainstreet to the South of the Town Hall (nearly opposite the Post Office) and the other being 100 metres to the North of the Town Hall on the opposite side of the road.
There is only 1 Hotel in town, located on the main street a few steps North of the Town Hall, which is very helpful and friendly, having information on several of the walking and climbing possibilities in the area. The Hotel is open all year but the restaurant might be closed during winter. If you intend to arrive out of season it might be best to contact them before you arrive (see our accommodation section for details). If the restaurant is closed, there is a Pizzeria in town open most of the year, even if only for dinner, which is located on the main-street 100 m South of the Town Hall. Many of the few bars in town are closed at lunchtime so you would be wise to buy something for lunch from one of the couple of supermarkets in town open in the mornings.